Following the momentum of New York and London, Milan took centre stage from February 24 to March 2 for the FW2026 collections. As ever, the Italian capital of craft delivered a season defined by duality, blending reverence for legacy with bold recalibration.
MFW FALL/WINTER 2026: POWERED BY RENEWAL
A compelling dialogue between past and present unfolded at Fendi, where Maria Grazia Chiuri returned to the Roman house where her career began. Emphasising collective creation, she balanced versatile tailoring and polished wardrobe staples with rich textures and fur, a material synonymous with the house’s heritage. The iconic Baguette got a renewed focus, reimagined through embroidery, paillettes and intricate embellishment. The result felt grounded in craftsmanship yet distinctly contemporary, a balance Chiuri is known for.
Momentum continued at Marni, where Meryll Rogge’s debut brought fresh energy to the brand. By layering patterns, playing with proportion and revisiting vintage-inspired silhouettes, the designer stayed true to Marni’s playful DNA while giving it a modern update. The emphasis on strong creative authorship carried into one of the season’s most closely watched moments: Demna’s first runway show for Gucci. Titled “Gucci Primavera”, the collection leaned into body-focused silhouettes staged under dramatic lighting that heightened its impact. References to the house’s past were evident, yet the overall tone was unmistakably Demna: sensual, sharp and infused with a darker, subcultural edge.
At Giorgio Armani, Silvana Armani introduced her ready-to-wear vision for the house, maintaining Mr. Armani’s unmistakable codes while subtly reinterpreting them, creating both homage and quiet assertion, signalling generational continuity. In contrast, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons approached complexity with intellectual precision at Prada, presenting 60 looks on just 15 models who re-emerged layered and transformed. The collection explored multiplicity and the shifting realities of modern womanhood, reinforcing Prada’s astonishing ability to make concepts feel instinctive rather than abstract.
MILAN: CORE IDENTITIES, CONTINUED
Bottega Veneta injected sculptural play and vibrant colour, while Missoni and Etro sustained their bohemian and free-spirited codes. Meanwhile, Max Mara, Jil Sander and Boss reaffirmed the power of disciplined tailoring and sophisticated silhouettes, while Ferragamo drew from 1920s speakeasy glamour, blending structured precision with velvets, metallics and deep jewel tones.
This winter in the Italian fashion capital felt anything but muted. Designers embraced legacy while redefining it, proving that in Milan heritage is not a constraint, but a foundation for forward motion.
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© Video: Prada.